“Munich” June 21, 2008
Possible deep revision piece.
I don’t just love the city where I was born, it is my heart and soul, so when I wrote on Friday to Peggy’s Sacred Writing Prompt: Travel: write about a favorite place you have visited, I wrote about Munich; not because I have visited it and liked it, but because when I travel there, I go to my roots, to the core of who I am. It is a journey not so much to a place, as a journey inward, into my heart and mind, to where I began. Everything I am as a human being can be traced there. I always cry, broken, when I leave. No, I shouldn’t say heartbroken, because it is more than that. Every cell of my body is wrenched with longing and sadness at leaving Munich. It is not because I don’t love my home in KY, looking across the beautiful, ever changing Ohio River, to the hills of Southern Ohio, where I teach and have taught German language and culture to teenagers for nearly 20 years; but because when I leave Munich, I am being torn in two.
6/20/08 – Sacred Writing
I am lucky, I have traveled a lot, but I must say, my favorite place I have been is Munich, Germany, the capital of Bavaria. Don’t get me wrong, I live here by choice, but Munich is my heart and my soul.
By the way, Pope Benedict was the Bishop of Munich, when I visited there when I was 18. I figured it out – we didn’t visit him. I did decide the first time I saw a picture of him, that he looks like my grandmother, with his deep set eyes and his beautiful white hair with the same hairline as she had. We must be cousins!
I digress – imagine that.
I was born in Munich. I love the sounds, the sights, and the smells – yes, including the diesel exhaust smell of the busses. At this moment I can hear the sounds of the church bells, and the smell of the incense and the stone dust in the magnificent old churches. I love the crunch and the feel of the tiny gray gravels that soften my steps on the pathways in some of the parks. I love the smell of pork roasting with thyme and onions and celery and parsley. And of course I love the smell of the fresh locally brewed beer. Once, when I was there with students, we had broken up into groups of two or three, with plans to meet at the Maria Column later. Tracy, my 16 year old student and I bought a sack of pralines. We had planned to share with the rest of the group – I remembered them from my childhood. Our intentions were good, but we ate them all; every one of them.
Munich is the center of the German film industry, has a huge and gorgeous opera house, and has a thriving theater industry. It is Broadway, Hollywood and Vienna together. The weather is 75 degrees, not humid and sunny in the summer (if it is not raining and 50 degrees!) Street musicians of every genre are performing on every street corner on weekends, and they are very talented. Talented and diverse: Native American, Indian, Classical, Jazz, American country.
I love the friendliness of the shop keepers – even in department stores – they say Gruess Gott as you enter, and Auf Wiedersehen as you leave.
I fell into a fountain or two as a child – Mama wasn’t thrilled, but she laughed anyway, I am sure.
I loved the smell of the coffee and cake from the cafes then, and still do. That is one of those smells that promises more than it delivers – coffee.
When I was fourteen, Mama and I took my 18 month old sister, Christie, to let Oma see her. Papa stayed home and worked. I was awed by the sheer beauty of the place. My future Tante Hannelore, who is precicely ten years older than I am, was at that time dating my Onkel Werner. They took me to a nightclub for young people, called the Schwabinger Nest. Schwabing is the section of Munich by the University. It is the artsy, intellectual section of Munich, similar to Greenwich Village in New York. There was a bird’s nest on the metal hanging sign outside. In Germany the legal drinking age is 16, 18 for liquor., but if you don’t act silly, they don’t ask. I looked older. Hannelore and Werner ordered me a Tom Collins – my first mixed drink. How old and sophisticated was I! I was asked to dance by a young man. I was 14, and he asked how old I was, so I said fifteen, but that my birthday was in a couple of weeks. He said, “So sixteen?” I said nothing. I am not sure of the extent to which Mama approved or disapproved of my Tom Collins. She acted shocked, “You bought her a drink!” But I got the impression that she really preferred that I experiment with drinking alcohol with the supervision of my aunt and uncle.
Mama had been diagnosed with terminal cancer just months before the next trip back to Munich. The trip was when I was 18. Mama had had radiation treatments and chemo to extend her life. My sister was only six, and the point was for her to live long enough for me to become mature enough to raise her. That is exactly what happened. Mama died when Christie was 8 and I was just days shy of being 21. Before she died, Mama wanted to return to Munich to visit her mother, brothers and the rest of her family. It was a bittersweet time. Mama still felt well enough to enjoy most days, but mostly she enjoyed just being with her family.
One day, however, she decided to show me “her old stomping grounds.” She told me that she had not realized how beautiful Munich was until she moved away as a young adult. She did not know that all places did not have fountains and beautifully maintained ancient buildings, and a huge park, the largest in Europe. She did not think as a teenager that the Munich Zoo was one of the world’s finest, and most progressive, with natural habitats for the animals in the 1950’s. Mama had the build of a fashion model. She was 5ft. 8 in. tall and weighed 125 – 128 lbs. However, due to the radiation treatments, her right leg was swollen to triple its normal size, and she was in pain. She walked all over the old downtown section of Munich with just me. I protested more than once that she need not do this, but she insisted that it was to be a gift for me that only she could give, and that she wanted this very much.
We visited all of the magnificent old churches. St. Peter’s, or affectionately, “Alte Peter.” This is the oldest church in Munich, and is closest to the old city center. It is not particularly large, but is gothic and beautiful in a way that reflects the history of this rich old city. The Church of our Lady, “Frauenkirche” was next. It is the largest, also Gothic, and not as ornate as some, but it is splendid, and is my favorite. This is the one where my uncles carried me to the very top of the towers as a toddler to look at the Alps 100 miles to the south. I have done this since, and on a clear day, the mountains are magnificent. There is a legend that an indentation in the vestibule of the Frauenkirche is the footprint of the devil. Apparently, the devil strode arrogantly into the church to mock God, but when he saw the crucifix at the front of the church, he had to turn around and flee. Theatiner Kirche, the most opulent, was built as an offering of thanks to God for the birth of King Ludwig and Theresa for the birth of their son. It is unbelievably ornate in the rococo style carved all in white. My other favorite is a church we attended on some occasions, because the Munich Opera singers served as the church Choir. Imagine that! I remember that the music was lovely, but the sermon was in Latin, and I was 4 or 5, so what I really remember is the backs of legs. At my height in the crowded, standing room only church, I looked at legs in seamed stockings in gleaming black pumps, thick men’s pant legs, of quality cloth. Some of the men’s shoes were brown and dirty, with squashed heels. Some of the women had “runners” in their seamed stockings.
Mama reminded me that I had wanted to be a nun when I was five. She did not think that this was a good goal for me. Perhaps this was because the reason that I wanted to be a nun was that I liked their outfits: long black dresses, with gold trim down the middle of the front, and a gold belt that made a cross in front. They also wore wonderful black hats with a white part close to their faces, that made them look as though they could fly. She laughed until her nostrils quivered and her eyes watered, as she told me this. I noticed that her leg looked even more swollen. (as if it could burst)
We visited the Victualien Markt, a produce market that has been in Munich in the same location since the middle ages.
Wednesday, June 25, 2008
I just met with Laura Bentley, and she made the following suggestions for this piece:
- Definitely, this should be my deep revision piece.
- Go from the intro to:
- I love the sights……… I don’t need the part about the Sacred Writing prompt.
- Omit the student trip part, and focus on Munich and my mother.
- Refer to planning a trip just with Christie.
- Title: Inward Journey.
Thursday, June 26: Ideas from Writing Group: Dustee and Mary
1. What kind of person was Mama?
2. Add the demerol.
3. Proud of her heritage and made this last journey to take me.
4. Make it all about Mama and my journey with me.
5. I could see her struggle and pain.
6. Keep the family connection.
7. She took me to share her life with me.
8. Take my sister one day. (Laura too)
9. Focus on the Munich you saw with your mom.
10. She knew she had little time.
11. As a little girl with Mama – Add that she reminded me of things on this trip through the city.
12. Mention my mom and her condition. Did I notice her pain? Her courage and strength.